Blog #13 Sewing on the Buckles
Pinning on of the Buckles.
Note all the patterns and lines are lined up. While not shown, the Buckel tongues are pushed through the cloth and NOT cut. In doing this the threads are whole and still strong. Over time, Cut threads will unravel and cause the material to fail. Shown are the two buckles on the right side.
A close up of the left buckle. Notice how the stitching all but disappears. Also shown in this picture, Bar Tack Stitching at the top of every pleat. These are used to start and finish every pleat. They are very strong and hold the pleat together at the start and finish.
Ok, Whole lot going on in this photo. The Strap is sewn to the interfacing which is then sewn to the front apron.
As stated in previous posts, the average human exerts 44 pounds per square inch. This means that a average male with a 38" waist exerts over 5000 pounds of pressure on the waist band. Just Breathing!
This is why interfacing is sewn around the entire Kilt. Not, just the pleats in the back. The area most kilts fail is the buckle attachment points on the sides.
As you can see in the photo below, Interfacing is brought to the edge of the top apron and then the belt strap is sewn directly to the interfacing. In doing this it keeps the Tartan fabric from bearing the brunt of the weight from the straps.
Lining is now covering the interfacing and pinned in place. The Second Buckle is not sewn to the interfacing as it only helps the kilt to lay flat and all the load is carried on the top two buckles on the left and right sides.
Link: Hand Sewn Kilt