Instructions on how to lay out your Plaid  for wearing with your Kilt Jacket.  

The Tartan is a MacFarlane Black and White part of a package for a long time customer.   

 

Short video of the process of Pearling a Plaid.  Taking threads and counter twisting them into each other... making a single 2 strand twisted fringe.  

Interfacing being sewn into the left side.  It covers the Pleats in the back at top of the outer apron.  Humans exert approximately 44 pounds of pressure per square inch. 

Reference: Forensic Biomechanics

Why this is important to you?   If a "Average" Male has a waist of 36" inches and the Kilt has a 4" inch Band.   4 * 36 * 44 = 6,336 Pounds per square inch! (It goes up for bigger guys...)   SO, if you are wearing a kilt that does not have interfacing AND you are blowing out the seams.  This is why. 

Because of this Interfacing is brought all the way around the kilt.  In the photo below you can see the belt hole being sewn completely around with the interfacing  

 Lining pinned and ready to be sewn. 

 Right side apron with interfacing sewn in place. 

Lining pinned in place ready to be sewn.  

 

Link: Traditional Hand Sewn Kilt

Pinning on of the Buckles.  

Note all the patterns and lines are lined up.  While not shown, the Buckel tongues are pushed through the cloth and NOT cut.  In doing this the threads are whole and still strong.  Over time,  Cut threads will unravel and cause the material to fail.   Shown are the two buckles on the right side. 

A close up of the left buckle. Notice how the stitching all but disappears.  Also shown in this picture, Bar Tack Stitching at the top of every pleat.  These are used to start and finish every pleat.  They are very strong and hold the pleat together at the start and finish. 

Ok,  Whole lot going on in this photo.  The Strap is sewn to the interfacing which is then sewn to the front apron.  

As stated in previous posts, the average human exerts 44 pounds per square inch. This means that a average male with a 38" waist exerts over 5000 pounds of pressure on the waist band.  Just Breathing!

This is why interfacing is sewn around the entire Kilt.  Not, just the pleats in the back. The area most kilts fail is the buckle attachment points on the sides.  

As you can see in the photo below,  Interfacing is brought to the edge of the top apron and then the belt strap is sewn directly to the interfacing. In doing this it keeps the Tartan fabric from bearing the brunt of the weight from the straps.  

 Lining is now covering the interfacing and pinned in place.  The Second Buckle is not sewn to the interfacing as it only helps the kilt to lay flat and all the load is carried on the top two buckles on the left and right sides. 

All finished!

  

Link:  Hand Sewn Kilt

(Not a April Fools Day Thing) 

For Some time now I have been writing messages on the interfacing. 

Not every Kilt. Not every customer.

 Just some little good Karma message!

 

 

Where the finished Message ends up.

Link to: Hand Sewn Kilt

How to Wear Flashes Part 2/2

 

According to The Scottish Uniform Regulations page 56.  Are to be worn with the forward edge of the flash in line with the shin bone and the centre of the front diamond. The bottom of the flash is to be in line with the bottom of the second diamond. When wearing the 6 inch flash with Lovat hose only 2 inches of flash should be displayed below the bottom of the turn down. The forward edge of the flash is to run down the centre of the shin bone. The turn down on Lovat Hose should be 3 inches / four fingers width.

 

If you do not have Diamond Hose, Follow the rule of Forward Flash runs parallel to the shin bone. 

Many, individuals wear them to the outside of the leg, this is incorrect. 

 

the Sgian-Dubh is worn in the right leg just to the outside of the right side of the flash. 

 

Link to: Sgian Dubh

Link to: Flashes 

Part one of two...

Step one cut 4 pieces of similar Tartan Pieces.  Note the weave is mirrored, forming a delta wing or chevron.  These particular pieces match the front center of the Gig Line of this Kilt. 

 

The sides are then sewn together and turned right side out.  The next step is to then press flat.  

After pressing flat, the tops are folded over and down making a channel for the garters.  

the bottoms are trimmed forming chevrons on the flashes. 

 

Flashes are finished and ready for the garters.

 

Finished Product. 

 

Link to: Tartan Flashers: 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Perfect accompaniment to a Semi Formal to Formal occasion.  The Scottish Couture Tartan Cummerbund is a fabulous accent to any Little Black Dress.  It is worn matching to your escort's Tartan.

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Hello everyone, Webmaster Sean here....   If you could take a second.  If you have Photo's of you just after receiving a Kilt from Susan / My Kiltmaker.  Can you send them in?  I'll add them to the Unboxed gallery with your information.  Thx in advance

E-mail photo's to: sean_barrett@live.com

Link to Gallery: Unboxed